Change or rekey · Norfolk County
Gate & Building Entry Locks
The gate to the side yard used to close with a satisfying click.
In plain words
Hardware bolted to a gate or an exterior building door lives outside every day of the year, which is a different job from a lock tucked behind a storm door. This service treats that exposure as the starting point: cylinders rated for weather, fasteners that resist road salt, and a closer set up to keep working through a freeze-thaw cycle rather than seizing at the first cold snap. The result is a gate or entry that keeps operating through the season it is most likely to struggle in.
How the visit goesA visitor buzzes from the panel downstairs, someone presses the button by the door, and nothing happens. The electric strike on the lobby door used to click open on cue; now it stays silent, and residents are propping the entry with a folded flyer instead.
Gate & Building Entry Locks
How the visit goes
Checking the closer and hinges together
A closer cannot be judged on its own, because a gate that slams or drifts open is often fighting hinges or a post that have moved. The locksmith checks the closer's current adjustment, the condition of its arm and fittings, and then the hinges or pivots the gate hangs from, along with whether the post itself still stands square. Separating a closer problem from a hinge or post problem here avoids replacing a perfectly sound closer that was only ever fighting a leaning post, or the reverse case.
Resetting the strike and keeper
With the gate or door's adjusted position confirmed, the strike or keeper is repositioned, shimmed or deepened so the latch or bolt has a clean, full throw into it. On a wooden gate post this can mean moving the keeper's screws to fresh wood; on a metal frame it can mean elongating or relocating the mounting holes. The goal is a strike that lines up with the latch across the gate's whole range of motion, in damp weather and dry, rather than only on the one afternoon it happened to be tested.
An electronic entry tested as one system
Where the entry includes a buzzer, keypad or electric strike, you see it worked before the locksmith leaves: the intercom releasing the door on a buzz, the keypad accepting a code, and, where the installed lock includes one, the mechanical override key turning cleanly as a backup. Batteries or settings that were touched during the visit are confirmed, and, if a backup key exists, you are shown where it lives so it is not lost track of. An entry with both a working backup key and working electronics now has two independent ways to open it, worth keeping in mind the day the power or the app misbehaves.
Gate & Building Entry Locks
In the van
Voltage tester for electric strikes
Plug follower and repinning kit
Corrosion-resistant fasteners
Hinges, pivots and shims
Gate and door closers
Gate & Building Entry Locks
What affects the quote
Condition of the closer, hinges and post
Simple adjustment of an existing closer is a smaller job than replacing a worn closer, correcting sagging hinges, or resetting a post that has shifted with the ground; the quote follows whichever combination the assessment finds.
Any damage from a prior forced entry
Where pry marks, a bent strike or a cut hasp are found, repairing or replacing that damaged hardware is additional to a routine lock adjustment, and the locksmith points out what was already there before quoting it.
Electronic components on the entry
A buzzer, keypad, electric strike or maglock adds its own diagnostic and testing time beyond the mechanical lock itself, and any electronic part that needs repair or replacement is priced as its own line.
What to have ready
- Roughly how many people currently need a working key?
- Has anyone moved out or left the building recently?
- Which gate or door is giving you trouble?
Gate & Building Entry Locks: questions
QuestionsA tenant moved out of our building. Do we need to rekey the shared entry?
It is worth doing, since a move-out is exactly the situation a rekey is meant to cover: a former tenant's key still operates the same lock everyone currently living there relies on. Rekeying resets the cylinder to a fresh combination and issues new keys to current residents, without requiring a whole new lock in most cases. Bringing any other gates or doors that share that key along at the same time keeps the whole property on one current combination.
What is the difference between a gate lock and a regular door lock?
A gate lock is built to work outdoors, so it usually pairs a latch or bolt with a closer that swings the gate shut on its own using its own spring, rather than relying on a person to push it home. The cylinder tends to be weather-rated, and the whole assembly fits a gate frame or post rather than a conventional door jamb. A building entry door, by contrast, often combines this outdoor hardware with an interior-style latch or an electric strike.
What makes a cylinder weather-rated, and does it matter?
A weather-rated cylinder is built with materials and seals meant to resist water, salt and temperature swings better than a standard indoor cylinder, which matters a great deal for anything mounted on an exterior gate or a street-facing door. Without that rating, a cylinder exposed to rain, road spray and freeze-thaw cycles tends to pit, stiffen or seize well before an equivalent indoor lock would show any wear. Choosing the rated version at the outset is usually simpler than replacing a corroded one a season or two later.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationThe old deadbolt has grown lazy.
- Lock Replacement & UpgradeThe lever on the side door droops toward the floor and rattles in your hand.
- Vintage Mortise Lock ServiceThe old skeleton key still fits the keyhole, but it now needs a jiggle, a lean on the door and a little luck before the bolt moves.