Lockouts · Westmount
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening in Westmount
Every time you pull the key out of the side door it comes away gritty.
In plain words
The visit runs in a set order. On the phone you describe what the key does: refuses to turn, spins freely, or works only when the door is pushed. That description tells the locksmith what to bring. At the door, identification and your connection to the property are confirmed. The key, keyway, door fit and strike are examined before anything is forced. The opening uses the least disruptive method the condition allows. Then the failed part is serviced or replaced, the door is adjusted if it caused the jam, and the lock is tested open and closed with every key before the locksmith leaves.
How the visit goesThe old mortise lock on the front door of the house turns the key halfway and stops with a dull clunk. It has been getting harder for months, and the brass key is starting to show a bend.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
How the visit goes
What is inside the keyway
A small mirror and a bright light show what the keyway has collected. Salt crust, sand, metal filings, sawdust from a renovation and the gummy residue of household spray oils are all common, and each reads differently: a dry gritty feel, a sticky drag, or a plug that will not accept the key to full depth. Ice shows as frost on the cylinder face and a key that stops short. A cylinder cap that has loosened lets the plug sit crooked so the pins never line up. This look decides whether the cylinder needs a flush and dry lubricant, a thaw, a re-tightened cap, or a full strip on the bench.
Opening when the tailpiece has failed
A key that spins freely means the cylinder is fine and the bar behind it, the tailpiece or cam, has broken, slipped or twisted out of engagement. The bolt is then retracted directly through the mechanism rather than through the cylinder, or the cylinder is withdrawn so the locksmith can reach the bolt drive. Once the door is open the old tailpiece is removed and a replacement of the correct length and profile is fitted, since one that is too short repeats the fault and one that is too long binds. The cylinder goes back, the retaining screws are checked, and the bolt is thrown and retracted with the key until it moves cleanly through its full travel.
Set up for the freeze-thaw months
After a winter jam the cylinder has been dried and dressed with a lubricant that sheds moisture, and you know the routine for the next cold snap. A keyhole cover or a storm door keeps meltwater out of an exposed lock. A tube of de-icer in the car or coat pocket is the answer to a frosted cylinder, and boiling water is never the answer. Rinse salt spray off hardware near a treated driveway or walkway when the weather allows. Doors on the shaded side deserve a check after the first hard frost, because they hold ice long after the sunny side has cleared.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
In the van
Replacement cylinder
Dry PTFE or graphite lock lubricant
Cylinder springs, pins and cap
Strike plate and hinge shims
Key blanks and code cutter
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
What affects the quote
Type of lock on the door
A residential deadbolt, a knob latch, a lever set, a mortise case in an older house and a high-security cylinder each take different tools and time to open and to service.
Inside door or outside door
A jammed bedroom or office privacy lock is generally a lighter job than a weather-exposed exterior deadbolt, and a mortise lock on an interior door sits between the two.
Mortise and commercial hardware
Drawing a mortise case, replacing a hub or spring and regreasing the contact points is more involved than a cylinder service, and storefront and exit hardware are quoted accordingly.
What to have ready
- Does the key go fully in and refuse to turn, or turn without moving the bolt?
- Was the door painted, re-hung or fitted with new weatherstripping recently?
- Is there another door you can use in the meantime?
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening: questions
QuestionsWhat should I tell you on the phone?
Say what the key does: refuses to turn, spins without effect, or works only when the door is pushed or pulled. Name the lock type if you can, whether it is a deadbolt, knob, lever or an old mortise lock, and which side of the building the door faces. Mention recent weather, any spray that went into the keyway, any other door you can use, and whether anyone is inside. That short list decides the tools that come.
How can I tell whether the lock or the door is the problem?
Try the key while gently pushing, pulling and lifting the door. If it frees up in one position, the bolt is being pinched by the frame and the door is the cause. If nothing changes, look at the key: does it go fully in and refuse to turn, or spin freely? The first points to the cylinder, the second to the tailpiece behind it. Tell the locksmith which you found and the right parts come in the van.
My keypad deadbolt is jammed and the motor just whirs. Is that the same service?
Yes, with one difference. On an electronic deadbolt the motor is trying to throw a bolt that is bound in the strike, and it strains or times out instead of driving it. Door alignment is a common cause, though batteries, corrosion, an overtightened mounting bolt, or a hardware fault can produce the same strain. The locksmith frees the bolt, adjusts the strike or hinges so it travels without resistance, checks the battery contacts, and confirms the auto-lock throws cleanly with the door closed.
Related services
- Business Lockout ServiceA cook stepped into the alley with the recycling and the rear door swung shut behind him.
- Broken Key ExtractionOvernight the deadbolt froze, and this morning the key would only turn partway.
- Break-In Damage Lock RepairSomeone smashed the little window beside the door, reached in and turned the thumb-turn.